I’ve spoken to several people who have that question. Most of them planted daffodils with the expectation that these bulbs would multiply and flower well for years. But instead of the “host of golden daffodils” recounted in Wordsworth’s poem, they end up with a few scraggly stems and no flowers at all. “What happened?” they ask.
Sometimes we can’t figure out why daffodil (Narcissus) bulbs don’t multiply and flower well, but often it’s a combination of circumstances. Here are some of the main reasons that these spring bulbs may not be doing as well as you’d like.
- Genetics. Some daffodils are bred for a special color or shape, but not for longevity.
- Soil compaction. If the soil where the bulbs are planted is really hard, heavy and compact, plants (not just daffodils) have a harder time pushing their roots out quickly. If the bulb can’t grow a good, strong root system the first year and it’s used up some of the energy stored in the bulb for that first flowering, the bulb will be depleted and may not be able to recover well.
- Shade. After flowering the Narcissus leaves are the solar collectors that produce energy that will be used the next year for breaking dormancy and flowering. If the bulbs are planted in deep shade these leaves won’t be able to build up the strength in the bulbs as well as is needed.
- Nutrients. Daffodils need an average garden soil that is slightly acidic, contains some organic matter and has the common nutrients that plants need to grow. Although you don’t have to fertilize Narcissus excessively, they won’t grow well in nutrient-deficient sand either! When planting scatter fertilizer in the area, don’t just put it in the hole. Don’t depend on bone meal alone for bulbs, and don’t neglect a light application of organic matter, especially if your soil is heavy or sandy.
- Foliage removal. If the foliage of a daffodil is cut down to the ground once it finishes flowering those solar-collector leaves have been taken away and the bulbs won’t be able to be replenished. Leave the foliage in place until it starts to yellow. And don’t be tempted to braid, tie, or otherwise put those leaves in bondage! They won’t be able to collect the sun if they’re all knotted up.
- Water. If it’s dry when the bulbs are trying to build up their strength your bulbs won’t be able to get replenished.
- Heat. Most daffodils need a cold period in order to produce flowers. If you live where there aren’t cold winter temperatures you might not be able to grow these bulbs.
- Damage to the bulb under the ground. Without Xray vision we can’t see if something has damaged the bulbs so that they just don’t have the power or ability to make flowers. Rot, insects or animal damage can possibly hurt the bulb but not kill the plant off completely. If you want to take a look and see if that’s a possibility, dig up a bulb or two and see if you can tell what’s going on.
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This photo shows several daffodils growing in one of my beds. You can see that some of them are thick and thriving, while a couple of them are thin and spindly. Since this was a daffodil collection, not all one variety, I can only assume that the thinner ones have different genetics that don’t make them as suitable for naturalizing. OR, maybe there’s something going on under the ground that I can’t see?
